Anak Verhoeven Continues Sending Spree with 15a Tick
She sent it in just eight climbing days
She sent it in just eight climbing days
CRACK! The jolt back onto the bolt, into which you are still quickdraw-tethered, stuns you. You only fell two feet, but your neck is stiff and your innards feel like they’ve been kicked by a mule.
With nearly 100 adaptive athletes and 60 volunteers, this year’s ACF was more than twice the size of the previous fest.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
The key is to increase your training volume but decrease the difficulty. Here's how to do just that.
Punting on routes is the necessary mental chrysalis we use to achieve the next level as climbers. Everyone does it, and it's OK.
Iranian authorities continue to deny any involvement.
To leave a poorly protected, dangerous line without simple updates ... is sort of like saying we shouldn't fix poorly designed roads or traffic intersections.
In recent years, there has been an uptick in indoor-bouldering injuries among newer climbers. Use these tips to help you boulder safely without getting injured.
32 hours, 35 miles, 23 summits, 14 classic rock routes, and 24,000 feet of vertical gain—that’s the Honnold Ultimate Red Rock Traverse
"How do you decide what climbs to write about? What makes a route newsworthy in the first place, and why are the fifth or tenth ascents of a route sometimes newsworthy and sometimes not?"
Despite the rugged approach and harsh desert conditions, the French endurance master sent America’s first confirmed 5.15b after just ten days on the route.
Soloing can be great, but not everyone should do it.
When you don't have climbing gear, you can make your own, and suffer the consequences.
During the storied 1968 ascent of Cerro Chaltén, five climbers spent 30 days sheltered in two different 10' by 10' ice caves on the mountain.
Surprise, surprise, France has yet another barely-touched limestone mecca.
Most walls will stand the test of time. We as climbers will not.
Five veteran climbers, Peter Croft, Jeff Jackson, John Long, Pete Takeda, and Dougald MacDonald argue the issue of retro-bolting older moderate routes with big runouts.
We tried to best this suit's waterproofness while camped out in a coastal rainforest, climbing slushy spring ice, on backcountry ski approaches, and long winter routes. The Dual Aspect hung tough.
Although the correct process to cut a rope is very simple, there are two things to keep in mind when you’re done.
Endurance can’t be built quickly, yet at some point most of us find ourselves in a jam, with a trip booked and only a few weeks to prepare. What are the best, quick strategies for making the grade?
This climber was experienced, too. Just shows that you can't be too careful when you climb.
The IFSC punctuated the 2022 season with a one-off Combined World Cup in Morioka, Japan.
“I’ve been scrubbing climbs that are V15 that I’m literally saving for when Jimmy [Webb] or someone comes back in town... There’s a lifetime of climbing here.”
Not to be confused with the Dawn Wall—a 5.14d on El Capitan—#Dawnwall is actually something less quantifiable and slightly more perplexing for climbers.
In not wearing her hijab, Elnaz Rekabi has become a symbol for the anti-regime movement. We hope she is safe and that her wellbeing is unthreatened, but we fear the worst.
The summit of El Cap was a garbage dump of abandoned equipment with portaledges, static ropes, camping gear, 93 empty water bottles stashed under boulders, and cans of chili.
That could have been a lot worse.
He just wanted to get on the sweet Maui stone, then someone jacked his truck—that's when the trouble started.
If a hold is bigger than your hands, it’s a waste of materials and wall space. Also: I miss taped boulder problems.
Harnden worked Bladerunner (5.14; 3 pitches) for 25 days before sending. Then he returned with a photographer and sent it again.
Us 9-5ers want to climb 5.16, but we don’t have the time to get there because of our jobs. Well, let me let you in on a little secret: You can train for climbing all day every day with these simple exercises.
Being alive is mortally dangerous. As climbers we regularly put ourselves at risk. Rocks fall, but miss. We run it out, but make it to the anchor. The avalanche sweeps camp right after we pack up. And hazards are not always occasioned by putting ourselves in harm’s way.
From how to nail the Yosemite Stonemaster to a satirical take on the Weekend Ice Warrior
Plastic holds are either made from polyester resin or polyurethane. Neither material is simple to recycle.
She was delighted to win, but wasn't sure she should have written the story of leaving a likely illegal migrant girl alone in the desert.
The Moonwalk Traverse and Saraghrar’s Northwest Face, as well as Annapurna III’s Southeast Ridge, will be awarded in Briançon, France next month.
Experts believe she is making statements under duress and it’s unclear if she is being held under detention or will face retribution.
Though he’s stepped out of the climbing spotlight in recent years and has always been a reclusive, enigmatic figure—a soft-spoken “man of the forest”—he has something new to offer the community.
Elnaz Rekabi placed fourth in this past weekend’s Asian Continental Championships. Then she went missing and rumors of her possible detainment circulated.
Megos sent The Full Journey—a route with “a rather violent dead point”—after seven days of work.
New goodies are coming to the market soon!
Heidi Wirtz describes how to use stretches to warm up for and recover from a climbing session.
When you reach the Pearly Gates or the banks of the River Styx or Nirvana or wherever, no higher power is going to deny you access because you only sent 29 5.13s instead of 30; there will be no angel with a golden abacus tallying up your 8a.nu points to make sure you merit entry into the Promised Land.
The British Alpinist's abridged career was in many ways defined by his attempts to differentiate himself from his iconic mother's achievements. In the end, the resemblances are eerie.
Sit Starts, Drop Ins, and Things No One Has Thought Of Yet
Instead of leather, the Skwama Vegan uses a “SkinLike” insole, which is as comfortable as leather and conforms to the foot like leather but (surprise!) isn’t actually leather.
If Utah’s Department of Transportation can get funding for it.
Gyms are great and all. But you can get just as strong by consciously training during your outdoor sessions.
"The [route] description ironically says something like 'Don't blow the mantle at the top...' "
These are the kinds of excellent excuses we’d make if we were really being honest about our climbing performance.
At 78, climber, hall-of-fame skier, and former mountain guide Dick Dorworth had to make a difficult decision.
Camp Hale served as a training ground for the 10th Mountain Division during the Second World War, playing an important if indirect role in the creation of the outdoor industry.
Front levers are just plain hard. And mysterious, because they are complex movements that involve so much more than just having six-pack abs.
This curated selection of Glen Denny images captures the rawness and wild adventure of Yosemite in the 1960s.
Scarpa’s Quantix SF is a high-end all-arounder that outperforms many specialized shoes—and costs less.
Each January we post a farewell tribute to those members of our community lost in the year just past. Some of the people you may have heard of, some not. All are part of our community and contributed to climbing.
Violating the rule "never take your brake hand off the rope," is bad enough, but this belayer took it to a whole new level of danger.
I’ll level with you, dear reader: while I don’t trust gear reviews that don’t name at least a few cons, the only con here is the hefty price.
Things fall apart. In climbing, that can mean whole walls in far mountains, sections of cliffs from the San Jacintos to the Adirondacks and White Mountains, and iconic forms or features on area crags.
After a near-death climbing experience, I was inspired to dig deeper into the psychology of fear and learn about its effect on performance, how it wells up in the first place, and what we can do to deal with it. What I found will take your climbing to the next level—and could save your life.
Not all climbing sessions are equal. Pick the wrong one and you'll waste time and not improve.
A V16, a V15 first ascent, and a V14 first ascent… in just three days.
“But watching them climb got me psyched, and the upper crux felt very easy on top rope, so I thought I should just go for it.”
Hard climbing brings out the best in people. It also brings out the worst. If (when) things go south, here's how to turn it around.
We climbers love our labels, but figuring out just what type of climber you really are begs defining.
Every young competitor who thinks about cutting weight or calories should add this one to their list.
Pay your passion forward for the betterment of the planet.
The climbers were taking rappel cautions but clipped to a single old sling as their rappel anchor.
This one's got to hurt.
World champion climber Lynn Hill once called Katie Brown “the best female sport climber in the history of the sport”—but the meteoric rise of Brown’s climbing career was equally matched by her abrupt departure from the sport.
Short film: Skye Kolealani Razon-Olds rock climbs for the spiritual connection with her ancestors.
Prepare, Condition and remain consistent with these pull-up training tips from Tom Randall
Peter Habeler and Reinhold Messner took alpine tactics to the Himalaya, blowing minds and redefining the sport itself. Over 40 years later, they speak about the first oxygenless ascent of Everest, and the rift that broke up the greatest climbing partnership of all time.
A late-season climb in the Bugaboos turns south when, while on the wall, a heli lands, packs up our camp, and flies away without a word.
But it has changed.
Opinion: Climbers through the ages have found value intentionally courting risk. There's a reason for that.
This year wasn’t a disaster—it had its jaw-dropping moments, but it also proved that the competition circuit is still in somewhat of a dizzy tailspin, the same one it has been in for three years.
Students attending a mountaineering course were buried by an avalanche in northern India, according to multiple reports.
In 2021, Verhoeven announced her retirement from competition climbing. She wanted to return to her outdoor roots, which she’s done with wild success.