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People

15 Years Ago One of America’s Greatest Free Soloists Was Taken by the Sea

Remembering Michael Reardon, the free soloist, husband, father, and free spirit who passed away on July 13, 2007, after being swept away by a rogue wave.

Matt Samet Jul 14, 2022
News

10 Things You May Not Know About the Matterhorn

157 years ago, today, the Matterhorn saw its first ascent. To celebrate that fact, we present 10 fun facts about Europe’s most famous summit.

Dougald MacDonald Jul 14, 2022
Skills

When Can (or Can’t) You Landscape Landing Zones?

ANSWER MAN knows climbing. (And he knows it.) Here he answers three questions: (1) when can you excavate landing zones? (2) What are best practices for simul climbing? (3) What's the best thing to do when you find old tat on a route?

Answer Man Jul 13, 2022
People

Climbing and Darkness Can Be Flip Sides of the Same Coin

Addiction. Encounters with death. The weight of everything, including happiness. Here are five personal essays about the intersection of climbing and dark manifestations.

Contributing writers Jul 13, 2022
People

What You Didn’t Know About Alex Honnold & His Free Solo of Freerider

Alex Honnold's free solo of El Capitan did not occur in a bubble of solitude and inspiration. In this archive piece, originally published shortly after Honnold's ascent, James Lucas dives into the story (and backstory) of Honnold's path to Freerider.

James Lucas Jul 11, 2022
Skills

A Rookie Mistake Could Have Killed Them Both

This guy had his partner lower him but she wasn't anchored. Luckily a guide was nearby to intervene.

Kevin Corrigan Jul 10, 2022
Skills

One Secret to Getting Strong? Cross-Train Throughout the Week

Michaela Kiersch discusses the importance of running, weight lifting, and injury prevention exercises to her training regimen.

Michaela Kiersch Jul 7, 2022
Skills

Go From Crag to Alpine With These 8 Tips

Progressing from weekend cragging to long alpine routes can be intimidating for anyone, even strong and competent traditional climbers.

Julie Ellison Jul 4, 2022
Skills

How to Actually Believe in Yourself When Climbing at Your Limit

The tougher you are mentally, the easier tough things will feel and the quicker you can recalibrate in the face of adversity.

Madaleine Sorkin Jul 4, 2022
Skills

The (Sometimes) Necessary Art of Climbing Choss

Eight tips for climbing safely in loose terrain.

Climbing Staff Jul 1, 2022
Skills

The Guide Who Could Have Killed Them

The guide was right about the loose boulder, but wrong to jiggle it.

Kevin Corrigan Jun 29, 2022
News

The Dangerous And Ridiculous Anchors Edition

This guy used 27 pieces of gear for one anchor, and that wasn't his only mistake.

Kevin Corrigan Jun 26, 2022
Skills

Six Tips For Safer, More Efficient, Rappelling

Rappelling is one of climbing's most dangerous acts. Mark Synnott, through decades of experience, has figured out various techniques he learned the hard way so you don't have to.

Mark Synnott Jun 24, 2022
Skills

Having a “Bad” Day at the Crag? You Can Turn That Around If You Want

High-gravity days aren't sourceless malignancies; they have causes, which means they have solutions.

Matt Samet Jun 24, 2022
Skills

Topouts are Hard to Train in Gyms. But You Still Need to Master Them.

Check out David Flanagan's author page.

David Flanagan Jun 21, 2022
Skills

Beyond Fingerboarding—Get Fit For Any And Everything

This six-week program will hone you to climb the classics, whether it's a mountain, wall or long free route.

Mercedes Pollmeier Jun 20, 2022
Skills

No Holiday For Danger: A Potentially Deadly Way To Thread The Rope

Always thread the rope through the anchor, not around it.

Kevin Corrigan Jun 19, 2022
Skills

Save Your Rope (Or Yourself): Learn to Use Directionals

A directional is a piece of gear, be it a bolt or a cam or a nut, that places your climbing rope in the most appropriate location for zigs and zags on a climb.

Julie Ellison Jun 17, 2022
Skills

Climbing in the Steeps? It’s Not All About Getting Stronger

When the wall kicks back past vertical, the pump clock starts ticking. It’s all about getting to the chains before that alarm goes off.

Julie Ellison Jun 16, 2022
Skills

Yes, You Should Train Falling

One of the easiest ways to improve as a climber is to get comfortable falling. It just takes some incremental practice.

Arno Ilgner Jun 15, 2022
Gear

Our Editors’ Favorite Approach Shoes (Updated for 2022)

This isn't a guide to 2022's newest approach shoes—it's the pairs we return to time and again.

Climbing Staff Jun 14, 2022
News

Leader Anchored To Gear Loop. Unwelcome Advice Averted Tragedy.

If a nearby climber hadn't intervened the outcome could have been a disaster.

Kevin Corrigan Jun 12, 2022
Skills

8 Pro Climbers Share Their Top Training Tips

We tapped eight professional pullers from a variety of disciplines and backgrounds to compile a list of the best training advice for all of us regular folks.

JP Whitehead and Max Ritter Jun 10, 2022
Skills

Toenail Clipping And Other Gym Grossouts

A climbing gym isn't your home, so exactly what is cool and not cool to do there?

Andrew Tower Jun 10, 2022
Skills

Melting Off Holds? Then Train Local Endurance

Getting pumped on a grade that within your limits? Then you lack Local Endurance. The good news is this simple training plan will address that weakness and have you hanging on virtually forever.

Brendan Blanchard Jun 9, 2022
Skills

The Complete Guide to Rock Climbing Training, 5 Lessons

Climbing takes power, endurance and technique. Here's a simple step-by-step program that's concise, easy to follow and will have you climbing your best practically today.

Brendan Blanchard Jun 9, 2022
Skills

They Climbed On a Home Depot Rope—Thought A Real Rope Was Too Expensive

They figured they knew enough about climbing to wing it, but took a dangerous risk that could have cost them.

Kevin Corrigan Jun 9, 2022
Skills

Slab Climbing Is Hard (But Can Be Easier With These 6 Tips)

Here are our six keys to master-class slab climbing.

Fitz Cahall Jun 8, 2022
Skills

The American Death Triangle, When Pride Trumps Safety, A Dropped Leader

A triple package of climbing blunders, near misses and outright stupidity.

Kevin Corrigan Jun 5, 2022
Skills

Rappelling Is Climbing’s Most Dangerous Activity. Here’s How To Make It Safer.

Use these methods for better rappelling—and rap backups.

Alexa Flower and Miranda Oakley Jun 3, 2022
Skills

Alpine Season is Here. Don’t Die.

There are small, basic steps you can take toward epic avoidance, especially on long alpine routes. Here are seven tips.

Dave Sheldon Jun 2, 2022
Skills

Why Climbing Falls Are Seldom Severe, And How To Keep Them That Way

Check out Paul Tusting's author page.

Paul Tusting Jun 2, 2022
Skills

8 Tips For Avoiding A Climbing Rescue

How To Prepare For Climbing Emergency Rescue Precautions Safety Tips

Kate Nelson Jun 2, 2022
News

This Climber Was Too Gripped To Rig His Own Anchor—Uncool!

Bad form all the way around, and not the safest/smartest maneuver.

Kevin Corrigan Jun 1, 2022
News

She Forgot That Climbing Can Be Deadly And Texted While Belaying

Might as well be soloing with this belayer completely out to lunch.

Kevin Corrigan May 29, 2022
News

These Kids Used Parachute Cord For Slings …. Said They Learned It From The Boy Scouts

They needed to be prepared for disaster. Fortunately, a real climber stepped in.

Kevin Corrigan May 25, 2022
Skills

I Took This Course And My Fingers Got Stronger

I took Six Weeks To Stronger Fingers And ... It Worked. Check it out.

Hannah Gartner May 24, 2022
Skills

How Kevin Jorgeson Practices Perfect Footwork

Nothing is more frustrating than falling because your foot slipped. Here's how to avoid it.

Kevin Jorgeson May 23, 2022
Skills

7 Tricks for Speedy Swaps at Multi-pitch Belays

When swinging leads on a multi-pitch route, the belay transitions are often the biggest time suck. But they don't have to be.

Sarah Garlick May 20, 2022
Skills

An Amputee’s Tips for Climbing Smarter and Smoother

During my seven-year return to the sport, I’ve used four basic concepts—constant flow, economy of movement, finding my center, and using my entire body—to refine and redefine the way I move.

Craig DeMartino May 20, 2022
People

Breaking News: Local Climber Sends His Project

Jackson Smith, a 33-year-old climber, has clipped the chains on his 5.11d project that he’s been telling everyone at the gym about for the past three months.

Owen Clarke May 19, 2022
Skills

Car Farts and Bad Music: How to Survive Your Road Trip to the Crag

“Road-Trip-Itus” is a well-known condition caused by spending too much time in close proximity to the same person. Here's how to prevent it.

Climbing Staff May 18, 2022
Skills

How to Reduce Your Impact While Bouldering

With public land managers clued in to the existence of us Pad People, it’s time to start bouldering smart and reducing impact.

Matt Samet May 16, 2022
Skills

A Series Of Unfortunate Events—A Fortunate Groundfall Landing

A tossed rock and a lost belay would have killed this leader if not for a miraculous landing among the boulders.

Kevin Corrigan May 15, 2022
News

Yet Another Crazy Dangerous Story: Dad Could Have Killed Mom

He didn't know how to pass a knot toproping with two ropes tied together, so he just took her off belay.

Kevin Corrigan May 14, 2022
Skills

Does Hard Skin Matter?

Or ... should your fingers be soft for the best stickage?

Caleb Sanderson May 9, 2022
Skills

Five Tips for Better Resting While Climbing

The why, when, and how to shaking off the pump.

Brittany Griffith May 9, 2022
Skills

Yet Another Dangerous Belay That’s Hard To Believe

A true story that could have ended any number of ways.

Kevin Corrigan May 7, 2022
Skills

17 Tips for Moving Faster (Safely) on Big Walls

Trying to turn that Grade VI into a mere 12-hour climb? Or just looking to make a 6-pitcher a feasible after-work feat? Proper strategy and preparation are crucial.

Climbing Staff May 2, 2022
Gear

Before “the Nut” There Was “the Pebble”… and It Was Sketchy

In the 1920s, British climbers carried pebbles in their pockets, slotting them into cracks and tying them off (with hemp cord) for pro.

Jeff Achey Apr 27, 2022
Skills

10 Cliffside-survival Tips for Climbing Families

If you've got young ones, that doesn't mean your climbing days are behind you.

Heidi Ahrens Apr 26, 2022
People

Why Do So Many Climbers Not Wear Helmets?

Head trauma is among the most feared and catastrophic injuries in climbing. So why aren't more rock climbers wearing helmets?

Dougald MacDonald Apr 25, 2022
Skills

How to Toprope Belay

Learn the safest methods for toprope belaying. If you're new to rock climbing, this will lay the foundation for future belaying skills.

Max Ritter Apr 20, 2022
Gym Climbing

How to Have Fun (And Climb Hard) at Comps

Pro climber Nina Williams shares 4 competition climbing tips.

Ula Chrobak Apr 18, 2022
Places

The 10 Commandments of Indian Creek

Thou shalt read this and do as I sayeth

Julie Ellison Apr 18, 2022
News

Leader Decks When Experienced Climber Bungles The Belay

Don't assume that because someone can climb hard that they are good belayers.

Kevin Corrigan Apr 17, 2022
Gym Climbing

Best to Avoid These 5 Common Gym-to-Crag Mistakes

Climbing gyms make fantastic training and practice environments, but they also reward some bad habits that can be downright unsafe outside. Jump-start your transition to outdoor master by avoiding these five common mistakes.

Blake Herrington Apr 15, 2022
Skills

Pulling Down on Granite or Plastic? Better Master This

Whether you’re seeking out pods and pin scars in Yosemite, tackling the blissful parallels of Indian Creek, or just trying not to blow your chances in your next bouldering comp, we’ve compiled tricks of the trade that will open up a whole new world of crack climbing.

Julie Ellison Apr 13, 2022
Skills

Total Body Climbing: Use All Your Parts for Smart, Savvy Climbing

Climbing your best and most efficiently isn't just about using your hands and feet.

Heather Weidner Apr 12, 2022
Places

8 Favorite Offwidths Worth Your Blood, Sweat, and Tears

Whether you’re already an offwidth fan or are ready to face your fears, check out this list for some of our favorites.

Susan Costa Apr 11, 2022
Skills

Learn How to Stave Off Pump with Heart-Rate Monitor Training

Directly linked to mental composure (hence technique) under duress, physical fitness, and your ability to recover, your heart rate is the engine driving your rock climbing. No surprise, then, that training with a heart-rate monitor (HRM) can be hugely beneficial.

Justin Roth Apr 8, 2022
Skills

Big Walls, Big Storms: How to Endure… or Bail

Being up high in bad weather is both dangerous and... well... kind of inevitable. Here's what to do when it happens to you.

Climbing Editors Apr 7, 2022
Skills

Use This Training Program To Send Your Hardest Route Ever

How do you train specifically for your route? There are tactics to employ both on and off route.

Heather Weidner Apr 7, 2022
Skills

Don’t Let Lower Back Pain Sideline You, Do These Simple Exercises Instead

Check out Dr. Jared Vagy's author page.

Dr. Jared Vagy Apr 6, 2022
Skills

Use the Clove Hitch To Simplify Anchoring Yourself And Transitions

This versatile hitch has a myriad uses. Here's yet another one.

Rob Coppolillo and Marc Chauvin Apr 5, 2022
Skills

Flash Pump Begone! How to Recover from Blasted Forearm Syndrome

Flash pump is real and terrible and can ruin your climbing day. And while the best way to get around flash pump is to avoid it (i.e. warm up), there are tricks to salvaging your post-flash-pump climbing day.

Matt Samet Apr 4, 2022
Skills

A Simple Way To Limit Tangles And Chaos In A Party Of Three

Internationally certified mountain guide Marc Chauvin gives a simple solution for addressing tangles and chaos during leader switches on multi-pitch climbs.

Rob Coppolillo and Marc Chauvin Apr 4, 2022
Skills

Improve Your Sport Climbing Onsight Game

Send more routes first go with savvy planning and execution.

Heather Weidner Mar 31, 2022
Skills

How Much (and When) Should You Actually Rest?

How long, how much, how often — everyone has an opinion. Here's how to get the most out of your training.

Katie Brown Mar 30, 2022
Gym Climbing

A Pro Trainer’s Advice For Keeping The Pump At Bay

Failing on a route often comes down to beating the pump. Take these four exercises to heart and slay the demon.

Alex Biale Mar 26, 2022
Skills

Three Surefire Exercises for Super Human Grip Strength

Want to increase your maximum strength and power? Would you like to feel stronger on small handholds and increase your prowess on dynamic moves? Are you stuck in a performance plateau and need a boost to surmount it?

Eric J. Hörst Mar 25, 2022
Skills

What the Hell is Speed Climbing?

Everything you need to know about this faster version of climbing.

Brendan Blanchard Mar 24, 2022
Places

10 Things You Didn’t Know about Bouldering Grades

Ever wonder how the B-Scale relates to the V-scale relates to the Fb scale relates to the Dankyū system? We've got answers. And some history lessons.

Matt Samet Mar 24, 2022
Gym Climbing

Putty Up for Stronger Hands and Fingers!

Looking to bring a new angle to your hand- and finger-strength training? Then try these fast, simple, effective putty exercises, which will hone the smaller, hard-to-train muscles in your hands and fingers and help with injury recovery.

Dr. Lisa Erikson Mar 24, 2022
People

The Top 5 (Worst) Ways to Get Sponsored

While it certainly helps to climb 5.15, you don’t actually have to.

Andrew Tower Mar 22, 2022
Skills

Everything You Need to Know to Boulder Safely

Prevent injuries bouldering by learning to fall, place pads, spot, and customize landing zones.

Climbing Staff Mar 22, 2022
Skills

Gym Bouldering Grades Vs. Outdoor Grades: 11 Reasons Why Outdoor Climbing Feels Hard

So how does that pink V5 in the gym’s corner stack up against outdoor boulders?

Delaney Miller Mar 21, 2022
Skills

Home Wall Primer: Part 3—Route Setting

Check out Rich Crowder's author page.

Rich Crowder Mar 21, 2022
Skills

Home Wall Primer: Part 2—Choosing Holds

The balancing act of choosing home wall holds, according to one rain-soaked Oregon climber.

Rich Crowder Mar 21, 2022
Skills

Home Wall Primer: Part 1—Planning and Construction

Check out Rich Crowder's author page.

Rich Crowder Mar 21, 2022
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