Your Complete Guide to Highball Bouldering
While highballing isn’t for everyone, its techniques—pad placement, spotting, fall strategies and so on—are.
Climbers invented bouldering as a training tool for mountaineering and traditional rock climbing, beginning on the gritstone outcrops of the United Kingdom and on the sandstone boulders of Fontainebleau, France, with some of the earliest forays onto the boulders of Font coming as far back as the 1870s.
In the United States, bouldering was seen, at best, as “practice climbing” until the gymnast John Gill applied the strength and skills he’d cultivated as a gymnast to pursue and evolve bouldering as its own pursuit, beginning in the 1950s. Pushing the sport basically on his own, Gill proposed a new bouldering grading scale (B1 through B3), and in the 1960s and 1970s established problems that would today be V10 (i.e., very difficult) on the modern bouldering scale, the “V Scale.”
Now, bouldering is a sport of its own—gaining popularity in indoor and outdoor environments all over the world. It’s the simplest, easiest-to-learn and to-practice form of climbing: All you need is rock shoes, a chalk bag or chalk pot, a toothbrush for cleaning the holds, some crashpads, and friends to spot you. In bouldering, climbers tackle boulder “problems,” usually five to 20 feet tall, but in some cases higher (this is called “highball bouldering”). The current most difficult boulder problems are given 9A on the French scale or V17 on the V Scale, and involve wildly dynamic moves on minuscule holds up overhanging panels of rock.
While highballing isn’t for everyone, its techniques—pad placement, spotting, fall strategies and so on—are.
The first real crash pads came out of Hueco Tanks, right? But that is not where the light bulb first went off.
The Lake Tahoe region has something like 15,000 boulder problems documented in 5 guidebooks. One backcountry boulderer finds Gaia GPS crucial to finding what he's looking for.
Check out Steven Potter's author page.
2022 is just around the corner. Here's a little training inspo.
An honest account by Nate Draughn, a top climber who hit rock bottom.
According to Niky Ceria, “The ideal line [is located] not too far from the water but also not too close to it.”
Check out James Lucas's author page.
The Boulder Farm offers private instructional climbing via toproping and bouldering, along with a WiFi-enabled Airbnb and an outdoor grill. All on the outskirts of Yosemite.
I’m sure we can all agree that the past year and a half has been a steaming hot pile of guano-covered choss for a number of reasons. But I’m not here to bring back painful memories. I’m here for the silver linings.
Salas has lived with blindness since age 14. After climbing for three years, he became the first paraclimber to tick V11. His tips are useful for seeing and blind climbers alike.
Tips for converting from indoor bouldering to the more involved and difficult world of real rock. Learn the common pitfalls to avoid.
Check out Steven Potter's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out Steven Potter's author page.
Check out John Burgman's author page.
Check out Gym Climber's author page.
Check out Gym Climber's author page.
Check out Gym Climber's author page.
Against a background of 10,000-foot peaks, icebergs, and the vast Atlantic Ocean, local Inuit kids in East Greenland are growing up stuck somewhere between traditional ways of life and the quickly encroaching modern world. Communities struggle with record suicide, alcoholism, and abuse rates. Four Icelanders and an American asked the question: Can rock climbing help?
Check out Massimo Cappuccio's author page.
During a Bouldering World Cup, inappropriate slow-motion footage of a female athlete was aired. What does it mean for climbing when the IFSC and the climbing community effectively condones the objectification of female athletes?
Matt Fultz dominated his first Hueco Rock Rodeo—on rock he had never touched. The low-key Idahoan has quietly become one of the best boulderers in the world.
When Drew Hulsey started climbing he weighed 300 pounds and wondered if the ropes would hold. He found out that they would, and found a community that embraced him. Now he sets an example that inspires others to join him.
Check out The Editors's author page.
The problem is so burly. Maddening. But Shauna Coxsey can't "let this one get away."
The new video of Daniel Woods sending what might be the world's hardest boulder problem might also be the best metaphor yet for life in 21st century America.
Check out Jes Layton's author page.
Check out Matt Samet's author page.
Off-the-radar crankster Pablo Hammack, 20, of Santa Barbara, snagged the first problem in the Valley with the proposed grade of V15.
A good spot is often taken for granted, but spotters are unsung heroes, our invisible ropes when our feet leave the ground
Yep, you read that right. Team US has two winners!
Twelve athletes have just earned their places in the final round of this weekend's Bouldering World Cup. Among them: Four Americans! In the lead are the usual suspects: Janja Garnbret and Tomoa Narasaki
By the round’s end, Garnbret had topped all five boulders, but so had Japan’s Miho Nonaka, the United States’ Natalia Grossman, and Japan’s Futaba Ito.
Check out John Burgman's author page.
Between the 2021 Salt Lake City World Cups—at the first of which Brooke made her first World Cup podium—she also makes a casual flash of Euro Trash (V12/8A+).
Jimmy Webb, Davin Bagonas, Daniel Woods and Keenan Takahashi establishing incredible lines deep in the Grand Tetons.
How Kānaka Climbers is encouraging ethical outdoor recreation in the state.
So far this year we’ve seen an insurrection, an inauguration and an impeachment. A climber’s report from America’s last, and most reluctant, state.
Wherein the author finds some good bouldering, is cursed by the gods and experiences an epiphany in Africa’s legendary Mountains of the Moon.
The Himalaya of India Has Long Been the Proving Ground for Mountaineering and Alpinism, But a Wealth of Boulders Being Developed by Local Climbers Could Put the World's Greatest Range on the Map for an Entirely Different Reason.
Check out Niccolò Ceria's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Usually the external dangers for climbers are loose rocks and the like. But turns out thorn bushes have it out for us, too.
Patagonia may be known for its alpine routes, but the granite blocs scattered around El Chaltén and Torres del Paine National Park have caught the eye of many intrepid climbers. For BD Athlete Nalle Hukkataival, the allure of the boulders was enticing enough to dedicate a trip to Patagonia to sample and explore the blocs below the walls.
Some would say dynoing near the top of a highball is a bad idea. Some would also say screw that and huck for it anyway, as our brave whippee did this week.
Check out Jacob Martin's author page.
The documentary follows route setter Tobi Diedler on a trip to Singapore, where he had the privilege of setting the biggest IFSC-listed bouldering competition in Southeast Asia "SMU GRAVIVAL." It explores the life and work of a route setter in general, but also the arguably absurd scenario of someone being flown around the globe to mount wooden boxes and plastic holds on manmade walls.
A showcase of photos revealing a woman’s perspective, voice, or position in the climbing world.
"I told myself, 'If you want to be able to adapt to these moves and get strong enough to do this thing, you're going to have to have complete obsession over it."
On March 27, the 23-year-old French climber Nico Pelorson did the second ascent Soudain Seul (aka The Big Island Sit), Simon Lorenzi’s proposed V17 in Font, suggesting a slight downgrade to V16.
Tierrany is the Yosemite National Park's first boulder problem to be graded V14—though it may not be the first V14.
Johnson joins a pantheon of heavy laborers—just ask Tommy Caldwell or Chris Sharma
Margo Hayes, normally known for her sport climbing, gets high on a bloc in Joe's Valley, Utah.
Alex Johnson first tried The Swarm at age 21 in 2011. In March of 2021, 10 years later, she came back, ready. We first published this essay on April 3, the day she turned 32, having given herself a birthday present.
Ten years later, Alex Johnson Sends The Swarm
"It’s all just a game people... and I play the game," Daniel Woods wrote in announcing the new problem, one of just a handful of proposed V17s in the world. "The game is how comfortable can you become with your own insanity.”
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Bosi made the first ascent of a new route in Siurana called King Capella. While the 9b+ grade will need to be confirmed, the young climber's other nails-hard redpoints would suggest the grade will stick.
Last year, at age 50, the unstoppable Tom Herbert lapped El Cap twice in a day. This year he re-sent Midnight Lighting... then he lapped that too.
Tristan Chen puts in work on the V13 highball "Takes A Village"—for some reason also known as "Trout of This World"—in the Gold Bar Boulders, Washington
Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Paul Robinson details his 17-year journey to send 1,000 8a-or-harder boulder problems.
Check out Bennett Slavsky's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out Aaron Gerry's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.
Check out The Editors's author page.