Hamish McArthur Sends Colorado V17 in a Single 3-Hour Session
“I want to redefine what we think of as possible,” McArthur said after his rapid ascent.
Climbers invented bouldering as a training tool for mountaineering and traditional rock climbing, beginning on the gritstone outcrops of the United Kingdom and on the sandstone boulders of Fontainebleau, France, with some of the earliest forays onto the boulders of Font coming as far back as the 1870s.
In the United States, bouldering was seen, at best, as “practice climbing” until the gymnast John Gill applied the strength and skills he’d cultivated as a gymnast to pursue and evolve bouldering as its own pursuit, beginning in the 1950s. Pushing the sport basically on his own, Gill proposed a new bouldering grading scale (B1 through B3), and in the 1960s and 1970s established problems that would today be V10 (i.e., very difficult) on the modern bouldering scale, the “V Scale.”
Now, bouldering is a sport of its own—gaining popularity in indoor and outdoor environments all over the world. It’s the simplest, easiest-to-learn and to-practice form of climbing: All you need is rock shoes, a chalk bag or chalk pot, a toothbrush for cleaning the holds, some crashpads, and friends to spot you. In bouldering, climbers tackle boulder “problems,” usually five to 20 feet tall, but in some cases higher (this is called “highball bouldering”). The current most difficult boulder problems are given 9A on the French scale or V17 on the V Scale, and involve wildly dynamic moves on minuscule holds up overhanging panels of rock.
“I want to redefine what we think of as possible,” McArthur said after his rapid ascent.
After sending 'Box Therapy' in 2023, which was then downgraded, Katie Lamb has climbed Yosemite's 'The Dark Side.'
Bouldering is commonly referred to as a resistance-based sport, but there is a significant aerobic demand that can impact athletic performance and recovery time.
Coach and elite climber Cameron Hörst explains how boulderers in the V3-V9 range should train for the blocks.
A slow, steady, and multi-phased warmup will prepare your body to work hard and make your training safer and more efficient.
Ratchet up your redpoint grade—and ditch some needless pump—with this flagging primer.
The first dyno? The longest dyno? A system for grading dynos?
Has a climb ever refused to let you fail?
The second ascent of the world’s first V17 // The world’s third 5.15d gets sent on livestream // James Pearson announces (for a second time) that he’s just done the world’s first E12 // And one of the Himalaya’s most intense North Faces finally see a first ascent.
The fall is safe, at least, if a bit exciting.
Vedauwoo’s crack boulders are just as quality as its soaring splitters, yet their low height and minimal rack make them far more accessible.
Improve faster and avoid injuries by climbing just below your limit—roughly 80 percent of your maximum ability—about 90 percent of the time.
Climbing is hard when it's hot. But these warm-weather tactics will help you excel. Plus: Here are our 12 favorite warm-weather climbing destinations!
"When I see pads crushing bushes, small trees, and flowers, I wonder if it wouldn’t be more honest just to toprope?"
Here's your checklist to stay injury-free out on the blocks.
The 20-year-old Canadian, a former competitive swimmer, did his first V15 last winter. He’s also at the heart of a vibrant young bouldering scene in Squamish.
THE WEEKLY NEWS ROUND UP: Italian alpinists establish 'Gold Rush' (5.12a A1+; 1,970ft) on their first trip to Alaska; Drew Ruana has his "best week ever"; Katie Lamb makes the probable first female ascent of 'Chocolate Jesus' (V13).
Alpine bouldering requires way more effort and consideration than a casual day at your roadside rocks.
LED climbing boards have the potential to send your climbing ability skyrocketing. But only if you use ‘em right.
One great way to feel weak and damage your confidence or your tendons? Fail to warm up properly.
‘Letting Go’ profiles Julie Hwang, a Taiwanese American climber, who leaned on her community, Chinese medicine, and climbing to work through a traumatic divorce.
Torrential rain reimagines this climbing landscape; a stand start become a sit, or the boulder itself can roll on its side.
Did the rules that climbers hated actually save Hueco Tanks? (From 2019)
By “Kevvie” Corrigan, age 15
Let the debate begin! Here are the best 25 boulder problems in America... or 25 of the best... across a wide swath of regions and grades. (From 2021)
Coaches Justen Sjong and Juan Usubillaga offer tips on how to train on plastic to become better climbers both outside and in.
How moving sideways has pushed me up.
For "conquistadors of the useless," climbers sure love getting into bitter disputes about how we enjoy ourselves.
This article was originally published in Climbing No. 380 under the title "Circuit Court."
Your Virgin Island itinerary is simple: send, rinse, repeat.
Because good friction and warm weather have very little in common.
“It only takes a few people a year to really do some damage.”
Those “easy sends” can still leave a mark.
In recent years, there has been an uptick in indoor-bouldering injuries among newer climbers. Use these tips to help you boulder safely without getting injured.
“I’ve been scrubbing climbs that are V15 that I’m literally saving for when Jimmy [Webb] or someone comes back in town... There’s a lifetime of climbing here.”
Sit Starts, Drop Ins, and Things No One Has Thought Of Yet
Gyms are great and all. But you can get just as strong by consciously training during your outdoor sessions.
A V16, a V15 first ascent, and a V14 first ascent… in just three days.
We climbers love our labels, but figuring out just what type of climber you really are begs defining.
From the first women recorded in mountaineering in the late eighteenth century, to the first 5.15 female ascent by Margo Hayes in 2017.
Bad landings, bad spotters, a fear of falling that makes you more likely to fall—don't make bouldering more dangerous than necessary.
Lucas Uchida, a 24-year-old Canadian comp climber-turned outdoor crusher, just sent “Singularity,” one Squamish’s most iconic hard lines. Check out the story and interview.
Climbing is a jargon-filled sport. And sometimes the jargon isn't even a complete word—it's an abbreviation.
Young and eager for adventure the author and his gang of few pushed bouldering standards higher and higher until the line between bouldering and soloing vanished.
Climbing stinks, really stinks. Knowing this is the first step toward doing something about it.
What bouldering is, how to do it, why, and what the future of bouldering looks like.
Is America’s best bouldering is above 9,000 feet? Some of us think so. Here’s what you need to know to hit the country’s finest alpine areas.
Understanding how to climb a boulder before stepping on is crucial to (a) maximizing the usefulness of each effort and (b) sending fast. Nina Williams shares tips for how to visualize a boulder problem and break it down into small, easily digestible parts.
On June 28, a rockslide occurred on the southside of Hallett Peak, destroying classic boulders in Upper Upper Chaos Canyon.
Like most climbers you probably train by developing your lats, pulling down rather than squeezing or pushing, but climbing often demands a variety of techniques including using "non holds" such as opposing slopers.
Check out David Flanagan's author page.
Naturally, some of Colorado’s hardest are putting up a fight.
A climbing gym isn't your home, so exactly what is cool and not cool to do there?
Climbing takes power, endurance and technique. Here's a simple step-by-step program that's concise, easy to follow and will have you climbing your best practically today.
"The Nooks will be the next big destination for GTA climbers to get a taste of what being ‘disconnected’ and climbing in nature feels like. [Plus] the climbing is GOOD—really good.”
"The South is full of these quiet figures in the climbing community—people who have put up some hard, scary, beautiful, hard-to-find routes and problems. I think there is something special about recognizing these folks."
With public land managers clued in to the existence of us Pad People, it’s time to start bouldering smart and reducing impact.
Chris Schulte's homage to some of the world's most iconic gneiss bouldering zones.
A photographer's journey reveals unimaginable climbing wealth and beauty, and barely scratches the surface of possibilities.
Pro climber Nina Williams shares 4 competition climbing tips.
The first bouldering World Cup of the season took place this past weekend in Meiringen, Switzerland. Here is what you missed.
In May, Salt Lake City will host three IFSC World Cups: Bouldering May 20-22, Paraclimbing May 24-29, and Speed and Bouldering May 27-29.
Ever wonder how the B-Scale relates to the V-scale relates to the Fb scale relates to the Dankyū system? We've got answers. And some history lessons.
Prevent injuries bouldering by learning to fall, place pads, spot, and customize landing zones.
So how does that pink V5 in the gym’s corner stack up against outdoor boulders?
The balancing act of choosing home wall holds, according to one rain-soaked Oregon climber.
Check out Rich Crowder's author page.
Katie Lamb has racked up one of the most impressive bouldering ticklists of all time. But who is she?
The 32-year-old American has over 30 V15 sends and several V16 first ascents.
Climbing gyms are great. But you can also train for climbing by climbing outside. Here are eight tips from veteran crusher Chris Schulte.
Until Gill came along bouldering was regarded as a leisure activity. He brought it front and center, legitimizing what is today perhaps climbing's most popular discipline.
Soudain Seul is the hardest problem in Fontainebleau. But it's unclear how hard it actually is.
Campusing has clear benefits for improved contact strength and explosive arm power. Here's how to get started.
Boulders in Big Bend, near Moab, were defaced with grease over the weekend. Cleanup efforts are underway.
If you can do a one-arm (or ten) but only boulder V7, it's time to train the technical side of climbing.
Bouldering psychotherapy is gaining traction because the sport is unique in its easy access and ability to draw out emotions.
With a record number of climbers heading outdoors, it’s more important than ever to keep a low profile at the boulder field. Here’s how to bring it up without killing the stoke.
10 years after the inaugural, and still only, bouldering gym opened, local climbers can now tackle the real thing in Valbona Valley. But hydropower plants and unregulated commercial development may muddy it all.
The Preseli stones were all transported to Stonehenge, 140 miles away. Preseli is a climbing area—a bouldering crag.
Forced to try the routes after the gym hosted a bouldering competition and left them up for weeks, I found one session reignited my stoke.