Dreamland: Rockland's Best Bouldering
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Climbers invented bouldering as a training tool for mountaineering and traditional rock climbing, beginning on the gritstone outcrops of the United Kingdom and on the sandstone boulders of Fontainebleau, France, with some of the earliest forays onto the boulders of Font coming as far back as the 1870s.
In the United States, bouldering was seen, at best, as “practice climbing” until the gymnast John Gill applied the strength and skills he’d cultivated as a gymnast to pursue and evolve bouldering as its own pursuit, beginning in the 1950s. Pushing the sport basically on his own, Gill proposed a new bouldering grading scale (B1 through B3), and in the 1960s and 1970s established problems that would today be V10 (i.e., very difficult) on the modern bouldering scale, the “V Scale.”
Now, bouldering is a sport of its own—gaining popularity in indoor and outdoor environments all over the world. It’s the simplest, easiest-to-learn and to-practice form of climbing: All you need is rock shoes, a chalk bag or chalk pot, a toothbrush for cleaning the holds, some crashpads, and friends to spot you. In bouldering, climbers tackle boulder “problems,” usually five to 20 feet tall, but in some cases higher (this is called “highball bouldering”). The current most difficult boulder problems are given 9A on the French scale or V17 on the V Scale, and involve wildly dynamic moves on minuscule holds up overhanging panels of rock.
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With the world’s first proposed V17, is climbing reaching a new level or becoming a numbers game?
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Expert advice for climbing tall boulders
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Magma formed Oregon’s climbing before it was cool
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An outsider decodes the intricacies of Japanese climbing culture
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A growing climbing community with relentless psych strives for legitimacy
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Isabelle Faus has ticked V14 and established double-digit boulder problems, yet the world’s most industrious female first ascensionist remains relatively unknown.
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More women climbing means a richer experience for all of us.
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Modify standard exercises for climbing-focused gains
Chattanooga, Tennessee is the best spot to spend autumn as a climber. Here are 8 reasons to hop in your truck the moment the leaves start changing.
Adam Ondra is arguably the best climber in the world— he flashes 5.14d, has more 5.15c ticks than anyone, and has topped the podium in a half-dozen international competitions. Ondra represents the potential of a new generation born to climbing parents and raised in gyms. his career is a case study in what happens when enormous talent and desire find their life’s purpose at an early age.
How to have big fun at small crags during a short visit to a faraway island
Alex Puccio discusses staying motivated through a devastating injury to come back stronger than ever
Use your brain to move your brawn
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Understand the science of foam to get more out of your crashpad
For climbers, “America’s Playground” goes well beyond the Strip
One amputee is on a mission to show the world that climbing is for everyone.
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The 14-year-old New York crusher has set a new bouldering standard
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When the pursuit of virgin rock led seven climbers to Venezuela, they found what they came for—first ascents and lifetimes of untouched boulders—but they also learned lessons they’ll never forget.
The most impressive moves from some of the strongest climbers in the country
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Catalan Witness the Fitness
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A former photo editor shares her advice for taking your climbing photography to new heights.
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