Adam Ondra: Climbing the Americas (Part 1)—Midnight Lightning
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Climbers invented bouldering as a training tool for mountaineering and traditional rock climbing, beginning on the gritstone outcrops of the United Kingdom and on the sandstone boulders of Fontainebleau, France, with some of the earliest forays onto the boulders of Font coming as far back as the 1870s.
In the United States, bouldering was seen, at best, as “practice climbing” until the gymnast John Gill applied the strength and skills he’d cultivated as a gymnast to pursue and evolve bouldering as its own pursuit, beginning in the 1950s. Pushing the sport basically on his own, Gill proposed a new bouldering grading scale (B1 through B3), and in the 1960s and 1970s established problems that would today be V10 (i.e., very difficult) on the modern bouldering scale, the “V Scale.”
Now, bouldering is a sport of its own—gaining popularity in indoor and outdoor environments all over the world. It’s the simplest, easiest-to-learn and to-practice form of climbing: All you need is rock shoes, a chalk bag or chalk pot, a toothbrush for cleaning the holds, some crashpads, and friends to spot you. In bouldering, climbers tackle boulder “problems,” usually five to 20 feet tall, but in some cases higher (this is called “highball bouldering”). The current most difficult boulder problems are given 9A on the French scale or V17 on the V Scale, and involve wildly dynamic moves on minuscule holds up overhanging panels of rock.
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The story behind one of Bishop’s most prized (and misspelled) problems
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Five top climbers who came back stronger than ever
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Age 17 / Queens, New York
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Age 26 / Boulder, Colorado
Ages 19 & 16 / Boulder, Colorado
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Protects where larger pads don't.
Top-shelf bouldering in the middle of somewhere.
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File this under "worst case scenarios."
Nina Williams shares three ways to improve falling technique so you can climb more safely and confidently.
Coach Justen Sjong explains the basics of this powerful training tool.
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Pro climber Nina Williams talks about her mindset and training for taking on new challenges.
A hilarious combination of bouldering and Photoshop.
6 Selfless Climbers Working Hard to Keep Our Crags Safe, Healthy, and Open
Coach Justen Sjong shares his journey and unique approach to training climbers.
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At a point where young climbers are performing at elite levels before hitting puberty, we take a look at the life of one such kid in Colorado and the trend that is reshaping the climbing landscape.
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Where the waves meet the rock
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Climbers, federal land agencies, and locals work to preserve Joe’s Valley
Globalization on a sheet of plywood
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Nalle Hukkataival, Helsinki, Finland
Looking back on the 2017 Women's Climbing Festival
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Unparalleled performance
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Alex Puccio, Salt Lake City, Utah
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Best All-Around Baselayer
The Send Shoe
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Mitigate fear and pull roofs like a pro