Strength Training for Injury Prevention: Dual-Vector Shoulder Rotations

Heading out the door? Read this article on the new Outside+ app available now on iOS devices for members! Download the app.

Strains, sprains and other injuries are common among climbers, but they don’t have to be. Sign up for Strength Training For Injury Prevention with Dr. Jared Vagy and you’ll learn the proper way to train, and  be on your way to injury-free climbing

This exercise strengthens the muscles that stabilize your scapula (shoulder blade) and that rotate your humerus (upper arm bone). The resistance of the band acting on your shoulder teaches it to remain engaged and stable while your humerus moves. This is critical for preventing chicken winging and can also improve shoulder stability while climbing.

For more injury-prevention tips, take Dr. Vagy and Climbing Magazine’s new 8-week LEARN course Strength Training for Injury Prevention. You’ll learn how to avoid common climbing injuries by strengthening your shoulders, wrists, fingers, hips, knees, ankles, and abs. With the help of pro climber Sasha DiGiulian, Climbing Magazine and Dr.Vagy take you through world-class warmups, workouts, and techniques to strengthen your upper body, lower body, and core.