Training

The climber having the most fun is the one still cranking at sunset. Here's how to keep your energy levels high.

Coaches are easy to find these days. Good coaches are harder to find.

Sport climbing trip coming up? Dreams of long trad routes? Here are 9 tips to help you achieve your rope-stretching, enduro-climbing goals.

Training takes time, effort and dedication—it might not be worth it.

You can train long or you can train hard, but not both—which is probably why so many of us train power so incorrectly.

“I think we’ve forgotten that in order to be good at climbing, you have to climb.”—Jonathan Siegrist, who is a nicer guy than you or me and climbs harder, too.

I asked the old man for advice, and he came through with five tried and true panaceas.

Here's what you need to know to get stronger without getting injured.

In recent years, there has been an uptick in indoor-bouldering injuries among newer climbers. Use these tips to help you boulder safely without getting injured.

Us 9-5ers want to climb 5.16, but we don’t have the time to get there because of our jobs. Well, let me let you in on a little secret: You can train for climbing all day every day with these simple exercises.

Gyms are great and all. But you can get just as strong by consciously training during your outdoor sessions.

Front levers are just plain hard. And mysterious, because they are complex movements that involve so much more than just having six-pack abs.

Not all climbing sessions are equal. Pick the wrong one and you'll waste time and not improve.

Prepare, Condition and remain consistent with these pull-up training tips from Tom Randall

Tactics for that next-level super hard route.

Follow these five simple, experience-driven not-training tips and in just six weeks you will be no better of a climber than you are today—and possibly worse.

Sheffield's legendary training facility changed the history (and future) of our sport.

It’s easy to train but it’s also easy to over-train. No matter how much you climb, you just can’t seem to get better. Or you have a nagging injury. Or you can’t concentrate and flub beta. Or you’re just plain scared. If this is you, then you need to change what you’re doing.

Are you training too much, too little, or missing the mark with your program? Coach has the beta for maximizing your approach to climbing fitness.

These moves will help you safely progress until you’ve got the exercise down.

A proper warm-up will target mobility and stability in both the wrists and fingers. Here's how to do it right.

What does it mean to try hard? Is it physical or mental, and how do we get better at digging deep? The author discusses.

Climbing straight on, hips parallel to the rock is the natural way to climb, but on steep rock this technique drains power and limits your reach. Learn the proper way to outside edge and step through and you will boost your performance without having to get stronger.

Improve your finger strength with a hangboard workout and tips

C-clamps mount over most any doorway and don't harm the trim or walls. Choice of three grips: textured holds, rings and bar.

"The bottom line is that climbing your best and pushing yourself are sometimes uncomfortable."

Understanding how to climb a boulder before stepping on is crucial to (a) maximizing the usefulness of each effort and (b) sending fast. Nina Williams shares tips for how to visualize a boulder problem and break it down into small, easily digestible parts.

Pro climbers got where they are through training, practice and by learning what works on the rock and what doesn't. Here, some of their tricks for upping your game.

Field Tested: Roll Recovery’s R1 is cheap, portable, and powerful, an excellent product that has insinuated itself into my daily routine.

Wes Schweitzer, a seven-year NFL offensive guard, began rock climbing five years into his professional career. He believes it’s had a remarkable effect.

Michaela Kiersch discusses the importance of running, weight lifting, and injury prevention exercises to her training regimen.

Slopers may be the most feared hold in climbing. But with the proper technique and training you needn't worry anymore.

The tougher you are mentally, the easier tough things will feel and the quicker you can recalibrate in the face of adversity.

Core exercises⁠—you love to hate them! But your climbing will thank you.

There are better ways to develop body awareness than mumbling expletives in Downward Dog.

This six-week program will hone you to climb the classics, whether it's a mountain, wall or long free route.

And the secret to living with a serious climber is.... don't take it too seriously.

We tapped eight professional pullers from a variety of disciplines and backgrounds to compile a list of the best training advice for all of us regular folks.

Getting pumped on a grade that within your limits? Then you lack Local Endurance. The good news is this simple training plan will address that weakness and have you hanging on virtually forever.

Climbing takes power, endurance and technique. Here's a simple step-by-step program that's concise, easy to follow and will have you climbing your best practically today.

From knots to selecting your first rock shoes, to training and safety, you'll find it here in our climbing 101 compilation.

What the heck is tension? Here's what it is and how to train it.

An effective program demands time off the wall. If you can make this time short but effective, you gain hours to get outdoors or rest.

Time to level up your finger training? This excerpt from Climbing Bible: Practical Exercises will get you started.

"My talent is being a masochist. My training totally breaks your body and your mind. But it’s worth it to be a champion.”

Everything's here, from fingerboarding to power, endurance and strength training. Includes expert advice on getting stronger fingers, shoulders, abs, you name it and if you want to train it up, this soup-to-nuts compendium has it.

Pull-ups are a great way to stay fit at home, on the road, or in the gym. When the movement gets repetitive, try these variations.

How do top climbers stay so relaxed, precise, and controlled in their movements, right up to the point where they fall? Here's where to start.

Struggling to reel in that undercling? You may want to work on those elbow flexors! Here are five exercises to strengthen your biceps and your brachialis. Aim for three sets of eight to 12 reps, but don’t do all the exercises in one sitting.

Whether you are stuck at 5.9+ or .13d, these proven techniques will help you achieve that next level.

Directly linked to mental composure (hence technique) under duress, physical fitness, and your ability to recover, your heart rate is the engine driving your rock climbing. No surprise, then, that training with a heart-rate monitor (HRM) can be hugely beneficial.

How do you train specifically for your route? There are tactics to employ both on and off route.

Climbing is a unique sport that requires both strength and technique. But it can be difficult to figure out where to focus your efforts: Do I need to get stronger? Do I need to improve my movement skills? Do I need to do both? The answer can be surprising.

Looking to bring a new angle to your hand- and finger-strength training? Then try these fast, simple, effective putty exercises, which will hone the smaller, hard-to-train muscles in your hands and fingers and help with injury recovery.

The balancing act of choosing home wall holds, according to one rain-soaked Oregon climber.

Check out Rich Crowder's author page.

Straps and rings aren't just for gymnasts. These six simple drills require no added weight and will bump your redpoint grade in just months.

The main thing that scientists have learned in the last decade is that we can use nutrition to trigger the release of the specific enzymes or hormones that play vital roles in the processes of getting strong or improving endurance.

Climbing gyms are great. But you can also train for climbing by climbing outside. Here are eight tips from veteran crusher Chris Schulte.

Hangboard training is one of the most efficient, effective ways to improve finger strength. Here's how to get started, safely and in good style.

Upper-body work is the backbone of climbing training, but an inobvious key to success could be stronger legs.

Climbing caught up with Jonathan Siegrist to talk about his sends, his training tips, and the importance of downgrading.

The causes of climbing injuries often fall into predictable patterns, and are preventable by taking a few simple precautions.

When we're in a flow state we not only climb our best but also feel our best—it doesn’t matter if we fail because we know we could not have done any better.

Training can get boring, or you're on the road and don't have access to your usual workout. These exercises can keep you fresh and you can do them just about anywhere.

Climbing has significant social, physiological, and developmental benefits for children and young adults. But there are also things they should avoid. And things you should avoid as a parent or a coach.

At last, a comprehensive training plan from professional climbing coach Neil Gresham. This program guides you through the entire year and everyone can do it regardless of age, ability or experience.

Power-endurance conditioning will give you the fitness required for sustained climbing sequences of between 15 and 40 moves, typically encountered on sport routes.

For the sixth phase we’re returning to low-intensity endurance to top up our fitness levels for longer routes.

If you stuck with the first four phases in this ongoing series, you should be feeling fit and ready to start strength training.

You’ve been training all year long. Now it’s time to focus on the skill element and see if the hard work has paid off.

Welcome to the Climbing's yearlong training plan. This eight-phase series will present specific workouts based on the principles of periodization, a proven approach to training that results in peak performance. Each six-week segment will build upon the previous with the end result being a better, stronger climbing machine—you.

Welcome to the Climbing's yearlong training plan. This eight-phase series will present specific workouts based on the principles of periodization, a proven approach to training that results in peak performance. Each six-week segment will build upon the previous with the end result being a better, stronger climbing machine—you.

Welcome to the Climbing's yearlong training plan. This eight-phase series will present specific workouts based on the principles of periodization, a proven approach to training that results in peak performance. Each six-week segment will build upon the previous with the end result being a better, stronger climbing machine—you.

Still falling on your sport-climbing project? Then you might have your tactics all wrong.

From tufas to aretes and even crack climbing, it pays to know how to pinch. (And even better if you do it well!)

A common beginner mistake is to mix skill and strength training into the same workout. To make the best of either, do them separately.

Check out The Editors's author page.

Every training routine doesn't have to work you hard. A bit of moderation every day has its own benefits.

Check out Gear Guru's author page.