Skills
Skills
How To Write a Training Program in 3 Steps
This guide from professional climber Tom Randall will help you create an effective and realistic training plan at home.
Three Tips for Training on the Road
Business trips, long vacations and bad weather limit your training. Here are some tips for training on the road.
Gear Guru: How Often Should You Place Climbing Protection?
Trad Climbing Doesn't Have a Bolt to Protect Every Other Move, and How You Sew Up a Pitch Can Be a Matter of Life and Death, or at Least Life and Being Seriously Gripped.
Topics
Two More Quackery Elbow Treatments to Avoid
Are two sorta high-tech (sounding) elbow treatments for climbers worth the time and money? Our intrepid doctor gives us the real dope.
Toproping Might Not Be as Safe as You Think It Is
Check out Climbing Editors's author page.
200-Foot Fall on North Chimney, Longs Peak
On September 5, 2020, Annie Weinmann took a 200-foot fall while soloing the North Chimney (5.4) on the Diamond, Longs Peak, in order to reach the start of D7. Here, she presents the details of the accident and dissects the series of decisions and events leading up to it.
This Simple Skincare Marinade Will Improve Your Climbing
Check out Matt Samet's author page.
Still Roasting Hot Dogs on the Campfire? Try This Instead
Enjoy tales from Spain followed by two original recipes from Kieran Creevy and Lisa Paarvio.
It Doesn’t Matter How Strong Your Gear Is If You Don’t Follow These Basic Rules
Cams and nuts can hold up against very high fall forces if placed correctly—but placing them correctly involves more than just shoving them in the first cracks you see.
You Are Training for Power Endurance All Wrong, You Can Fix It Now
Tom Randall and Lattice Training are here to help you fix your training problems just in time to send your next project!
Climbers Are Getting Strength Training Wrong!
Tom Randall of Lattice Training shares his expertise on how to train more effectively
Alex Honnold’s Mom on Staying Calm on the Rock (With a Rope!)
How to soak up the calm from your lead climber if your own confidence isn’t rock-solid
Why Underfueling Will Lead to Underperforming
What you should know about relative energy deficiency in sport (RED-S)
5 Quick Hacks for Beating Cracked, Glassy Winter Skin
Check out Matt Samet's author page.
Thinking Body, Dancing Mind: How to Enhance Your Movement Efficiency
Check out Si Moore's author page.
Why We’re Afraid To Dyno
Check out Carlo Traversi's author page.
Why We Wobble
Understand, manage, and channel your anger to climb your hardest
Overcome Your Fear of Falling: Part 2—Falling is a Skill
When we practice falling, we’re practicing a physical skill, but we’re also addressing fear and how the mind uses attention, which are mental-training issues.
How to Relieve Tight Forearm Muscles Using the Wave Tool
Check out Jeff Giddings, PT's author page.
Seasonal Drift: Why Appetite Fluctuates Throughout the Year—and How To Flow With It
Check out Alyssa Neill, RDN's author page.
Quick Clips: 9 Quick Fixes for Common Climber Problems (Autumn 2020 Edition)
Check out The Editors's author page.
Dynoing Master Class: Learn to Launch with Power and Precision
Check out Ari Schneider's author page.
Quick Clips: 3 Quick Fixes for Common Climber Problems (Summer 2020 Edition)
Check out Matt Samet's author page.
5 Exercises to Stay Mobile and Prevent Injury While Stuck at Home
Check out Kevin Corrigan's author page.
Training Plan: Mantle/Press Out/Compression Strength Plus Thin Vertical Strength Program
Top climbing coach Dave Wahl's 90 day training program will turn you into a thin-climbing monster during quarantine, and build strength for powerful pressing and compression moves.
DIY: How To Build Cheap And Portable Crack Trainers
Check out Dakota Walz's author page.
How to Climb Harder by Utilizing Power Screams
Shout, shout, let it all out. Harness your bestial power scream for ultimate sending
Quick Clips: 13 Quick Fixes for Common Climber Problems (Spring 2020 Edition)
Check out The Editors's author page.
Overcome Your Fear of Falling: Part 7—Conclusion
Your mind is motivated by achievement, causing you to easily slip into practicing falling to get it over with.
Overcome Your Fear of Falling: Part 6—Skills and Drills
Check out Arno Ilgner's author page.
Overcome Your Fear of Falling: Part 5—Incremental Skill Building
This lesson builds on everything you've learned by outlining components for building your falling skill incrementally.
Get Better At Crack Climbing: Practice And Train At Home
Just a few bits of wood and expert know-how are all you need to master the art of hand jamming.
Overcome Your Fear of Falling: Part 4—Know Your Motivation
You may do everything right and still injure yourself. Climbing and falling are like that. But, you can mitigate this possibility by being skeptical of the mind—your mind.
Overcome Your Fear of Falling: Part 3—Understand Your Fear
Falling isn’t something you can decide not to do, it’s one consequence of your choice to climb. Embrace it responsibly.
Quick Tip: Focus on Your Footwork Beta
Check out The Editors's author page.
How to Shift Your Focus Into the Present to Manage Fear—Including Your Fear of Falling
Why “get ‘er done” doesn’t work
The Skinny on Fad Diets
Are they messing with your performance?
Rapid Weight Loss vs. Slower Body-Composition Changes
Is there a superior way to change our bodies for climbing performance?
The Allfreefi: Maximize Big-Wall Efficiency with an Adjustable Fifi Hook
Check out David Allfrey's author page.
Quick Clips: 4 Quick Fixes for Common Climber Problems (Issue 371)
Check out Matt Samet's author page.
What the Wear and Tear on Your Climbing Shoes Says About Your Footwork
Check out Paige Claassen's author page.
Free Downloadable Climbing Training Guide
Check out The Editors's author page.
Paige Claassen: Train Toe Hooks the Easy Way
Check out Paige Claassen's author page.
Escaping Tunnel Vision: How to Fight Climbing Blinders With Paige Claassen
Tunnel vision can be just as debilitating as fear or pressure for climbing performance. Tips for thinking and climbing your own way.
Jump, Jump! Why the Simple Jump Rope Might Just Be the Best Warm-Up Tool Ever
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Climb Harder With Better Footwork—Paige Claassen’s 6 Tips
One of America's top climber's gives her advice for climbing harder with less effort by using your feet and your head. Plus, the importance of shoe sizing, and how to get your fit just right.
Quick Clips: Recovery Edition (Issue 370)
Fixes for climber aches and pains
The Comeback: How One Older Climber Returned to Hard Climbing After a 3-Year Break
Check out Randall Gann's author page.
Quick Clips: 4 Quick Fixes for Common Climber Problems (Issue 369)
Check out The Editors's author page.
Characteristics Of the World’s Best Belayer
Embody these seven characteristics and you’ll have a better chance at becoming the belayer your partner deserves.
Monday’s Climbing Gear Hacks: Emergency Belay Device, A Poop Bag, Repurposed Fanny Pack
Our savvy readers submitted these four tips from the field that can help you out of a tight spot, or just make your day at the crag or on the wall more efficient and enjoyable.
Get Better, Not Stronger: Improve Your Pacing
Check out Rob Pizem's author page.
Gym to Crag: Sport Climbing
Make the move outdoors with these tips from AMGA Certified Rock guide Elaina Arenz.
Quick Clips: 4 Quick Fixes for Common Climber Problems (August 2019 Edition)
Check out The Editors's author page.
6 Weeks to Stronger Fingers: The Importance of Rest
Check out Hannah Gartner's author page.
6 Weeks to Stronger Fingers: Anticipating and Avoiding Injury
Check out Jonathan Siegrist's author page.
Quick Clips: 4 Quick Fixes for Common Climber Problems (July 2019 Edition)
Check out The Editors's author page.
Gym to Crag: Trad Climbing
Build your knowledge base with these tips from AMGA Certified Rock guide Elaina Arenz.
Gym to Crag: How to Tie Friction Hitches
AMGA Certified Rock guide Elaina Arenz shares how to tie and when to use Autoblock, Kelmhiest, and Prusik friction hitches.
How to Get Your Mojo Back
Check out Matt Samet's author page.
Staying Hydrated: The Key to Climbing Harder
Don’t let dehydration be the thing that keeps you from sending.
6 Weeks to Stronger Fingers with Jonathan Siegrist: Proper Hangboard Form
Check out The Editors's author page.
6 Weeks to Stronger Fingers with Jonathan Siegrist: Proper Hangboard Form
Check out The Editors's author page.
Antagonist Workouts for Climbers: Improve Performance and Prevent Injury
Improve performance and reduce the risk of injury by training the muscles that oppose typical climbing muscle.
Climbing Nutrition: The Benefits of Different Caffeine Sources
Check out Brian Rigby's author page.
Learn This: Efficient Jugging in High-Angle Terrain
Check out Alexa Flower's author page.
Quick Clips: 3 Quick Fixes for Common Climber Problems (March 2019 Edition)
Check out The Editors's author page.
Multi-Pitch 911: How to Escape the Belay
Check out Alexa Flower's author page.
Quick Clips: 5 Quick Fixes for Common Climber Problems (February 2019 Edition)
Check out The Editors's author page.
Mind Your Manners: Ten Ways to Not Be a Bruh-Brah at the Crag
Check out Heather Weidner's author page.
Climbing Nutrition: What Do We Really Know About CBD?
Check out Brian Rigby's author page.